Absinthe

a distilled spirit flavored with medicinal roots. Flavored with a type of wormwood (Artemesia absinthium) and usually with anise, fennel seed and other botanicals. Unlike it's cousin, pastis, it is not a liqueur but a high-proof spirit, usually bottled between 60 and 75 percent alcohol. It figures heavily in nineteenth-century cocktails.

Al recommends Pernod Absinthe ($$), St. George Absinthe Vert ($$$), Tempus Fugit Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe 65 ($$$), and Doc Herson’s Poppy White Absinthe ($$$).

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Aquavit

a distilled spirit produced in Scandinavian and Nordic countries, typically with strong savory notes of caraway and dill seed. In addition to these, other botanicals may be used and vary on the country or on the specific producer. Aging also varies by country and producer; some are completely unaged while others are barrel-aged. Because it is produced by more than half a dozen countries, the spelling of the product varies; but the root of the word comes form the Latin aqua vitae, or “water of life,” which is the same root that gave us the Gaelic root of “whiskey” and the French eau de vie.

Al recommends Linie ($$), Krogstad ($$), Brennivín ($$) and Aalborg ($$)

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Arrack, Batavia

a distilled spirit from Indonesia. It is produced from sugar cane; traditional recipes call for fermented red rice as well. It has a funky, rum-like quality. It originated in the seventeenth century, when the Dutch were occupying parts of Indonesia; distillation was introduced and primarily practiced by Chinese distillers. Arrack is the original base for the earliest punches. The other major style is Ceylon arrack, which is produced in India and Sri Lanka and offers more delicate flavors. Disambiguation: arak is a distilled spirit with anise-forward flavor produced in the Middle East.

Al recommends Batavia Arrack van Oosten ($$).

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Apple Brandy

a distilled spirit that is produced from apples. Typically in the context of cocktails, “apple brandy” refers to the aged American style. (See Calvados for the French product.) This spirit was first distilled in America in the late seventeenth-century by Scottish colonists. Apple brandy is sometimes referred to as cider brandy, apple whiskey, or applejack. Applejack used to refer only to apple spirit produced from freeze distillation, but nowadays typically refers to a blended spirit made from aged apple brandy and neutral grain spirit. Apple brandy has a long history in American cocktails.

Al recommends Laird’s Bonded Apple Brandy ($$), Laird’s Old Apple Brandy ($$$), and Copper & Kings Apple Brandy ($$$).

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Bourbon

a whiskey produced in the United States, with deep roots in Kentucky. Bourbon must have a mash bill of 51% or more corn; the rest can be rye, wheat, or malted barley. It must age for at least 2 years in new, charred oak barrels. Bourbon was a latecomer to the American cocktail scene, but gained steam beginning in the twentieth century and eventually eclipsed rye in popularity as the last century wore on.

Al recommends Buffalo Trace ($$), Elijah Craig Small Batch ($$), Wild Turkey Bourbon ($$), Wild Turkey 101 ($$), and Four Roses Small Batch ($$).

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Brandy

a general term for any grape spirit, typically referring to an aged spirit. The word comes from the Dutch brandewijn, which means burnt wine. The Dutch were some of the first to catch on to distilling on the European continent.

American aged brandy typically produced in California. Distilling began with Spanish colonizers in the sixteenth century. California brandy as a category has long been ruled by cheap, low-quality brands, with only a few exceptions; it’s been experiencing a renaissance in recent years and there are now far more great producers on the market.

Al recommends Bertoux ($$), Bentwing ($$), and Copper & Kings ($$), and Osocalis ($$$)

French (Cognac) an aged brandy from a region in western France. It’s a highly regulated appellation, with six crus, or subregions where Cognac can be made. It must be aged for a minimum two years in oak. From VS (2 years), it goes up to VSOP (4 years), Napoleon (6 years), XO (10 years), and beyond. Cognac has played an important role in mixed drinks since the days of punch and figured heavily in nineteenth-century American cocktails.

Al recommends Maison Rouge ($$), Pierre Ferrand 1840 ($$), H by Hine($$$), Hardy ($$), Camus VSOP ($$$), and Frapin VSOP ($$$).

French (Armagnac) an aged brandy from Gascony. Older than its sibling, Cognac, it has many similar regulations around types of grapes, aging practices, etc. It’s often described as Cognac’s rustic sibling, but it’s a very refined spirit and tends to be less industrial in its production than some of the big Cognac houses.

Al recommends Delord Napoleon Bas-Armagnac ($$), Chateau de Laubade VSOP ($$$), Tariquet VSOP ($$$), and Marie Duffau Napoleon Bas-Armagnac ($$).

Spanish (Brandy de Jerez) an aged brandy produced in Jerez, a region in southern Spain where sherry is produced. There are several regulations for this type of brandy. It typically offers pleasant leather, dried fig, date, and tobacco notes.

Al recommends Lustau Solera Gran Reserva ($$$).

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Cachaça

a distilled spirit produced in Brazil from sugarcane. Its history dates back to the sixteenth century and many posit that it was the original sugarcane spirit in the Americas. It forms the base of many Brazilian drinks, but the Caipirinha is the most well known to American bar culture.

Al recommends inexpensive Leblon ($), Novo Fogo ($$), Avuá Prata ($$), and aged Avuá Amburana ($$$).

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Calvados

an apple brandy made in Normandy, in northwestern France. There are several regulations and subregions within this protected appellation. Pears can be used as part of its production in certain regions. Calvados has been produced in Normandy for hundreds of years and owes its origins to the region’s strong cider traditions. As with Cognac, there are various age statements, too: from 2 years aged right on up through very old, there's a wide range of products out there.

Al recommends VSOP Calvados for mixing from Christian Drouin ($$), Roger Groult ($$), Lemorton ($$), and Boulard ($$).

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Eaux de Vie

a general term for unaged brandies, whether from grapes or other fruits. The term comes from “water of life.” In French brandy production, it’s the unaged spirit that, after aging, is classified as Cognac or Armagnac. Fine, unaged fruit brandies from France, Germany, and other parts of Europe fall into this category, like poire Williams, kirsch, framboise, etc.

Al recommends Reisetbauer’s excellent line of eaux de vie ($$$$), Blume Marillen Apricot ($$$), Clear Creak from Oregon ($$$$), and St. George Pear Brandy ($$$$), among others.

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Genever

a distilled spirit produced in the Netherlands and Belgium, where it is spelled jenever. It’s a grain-based spirit flavored with juniper and other botanicals, which originated in the sixteenth century as a medicine. There are several styles of genever, classified primarily on how much malt spirit (similar to whiskey) it contains and whether it’s flavored or sweetened. Jonge genevers can border on flavored vodka, while oude genevers and korenwijn contain high amounts of malt spirit and feature a round, weighty texture. Genever was called Holland gin in nineteenth-century bar guides and was a major force in early cocktail history. Genever is the primary ancestor of gin.

Al recommends Rutte Old Simon ($$), Bols Genever ($$), Bols 100% Malt Genever ($$$); for the jonge style, look for Bobby’s Schiedam Jenever ($$$).

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Gin, London Dry

a style of distilled botanical spirit that’s characterized by strong juniper flavor. It can feature other botanicals as well, It became popular in the early twentieth century, when older, pot-still styles of juniper spirit (genever, Old Tom gin) were falling out of fashion. As a result, it became the more popular base for cocktails during that period and remained so for over a century. It is essential for a classic dry Martini.

Al recommends Beefeater ($$), Tanqueray ($$), Hayman’s ($$), City of London ($$), and Fords ($$).

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Gin, New Styles

a catch-all for the new gins of the very late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries. Often lighter on the big pine notes, these often focus on other botanicals, like citrus peel, spices, or fresh flavors like cucumber. This category is sometimes referred to as New Western Dry gin.

Al recommends Hendrick’s ($$), Anchor Junipero ($$), Nolet’s ($$), St. George Terroir ($$$), Monkey 47 ($$$), and Neversink ($$$).

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Gin, Old Tom

a style of distilled botanical spirit that was popular in the nineteenth century. Originating in England, this gin was typically produced using a pot still and is always sweetened to some degree. It shows up quite a bit in pre-Prohibition cocktails. Some expressions are aged, while others are not.

Al recommends Hayman’s for the lighter style ($$), Ransom for an aged nineteenth-century style ($$$), and Barr Hill Tom Cat for a more modern take ($$$).

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Gin, Plymouth

a style of distilled botanical spirit that has its own protected appellation. Once the official gin of the British Navy, it is now only produced by one company, Coates & Co. It shows up in some pre-Prohibition cocktail recipes.

Al recommends Coates & Co.’s Plymouth Gin ($$$).

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Irish Whiskey

a distilled grain spirit made in Ireland. Ireland, along with Scotland, were the first to produce whisk(e)y. Most Irish whiskeys are triple-distilled and include corn and malted or un-malted barley. That said, many styles exist and they can be blends of malt and grain spirits, distilled on pot or column stills. Irish whiskey shows up a little bit in nineteenth-century cocktails, but more so in the first few decades of the twentieth century.

Al recommends Slane ($$), Teeling Small Batch ($$), and Redbreast 12 for sipping ($$$). Powers, Bushmills, and Tullamore D.E.W. are all serviceable options for mixing.

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Mezcal

a distilled agave spirit from Mexico. Mezcal is actually the umbrella category under which tequila falls. Mezcal can be made from a whole host of agave species, many of which are wild, rare, and cannot be cultivated. It can be produced in any one of eight different states within Mexico. Because of the traditions around Mezcal production, it is often roasted over fires in large pits dug into the ground, which gives it a smoky flavor. It is a very popular ingredient in modern cocktails.

Al recommends Sombra ($$), Madre Mezcal ($$), Del Maguey Vida ($$), and Mezcal Vago ($$).

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Pisco

a distilled grape spirit from Peru and Chile. Its history begins in the the sixteenth century, when early Spanish colonizers started making brandy. There are several regions of production in Peru, but most Peruvian piscos are pot-distilled and produced from grapes in the Moscatel family. The spirit typically rests in used barrels, but often appears colorless because the barrels are often quite old. Pisco has a long history in mixology, both in South America and the U.S.

Al recommends Barsol ($$), Macchu Pisco ($$), and Campo de Encanto Pisco Acholado ($$).

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Rum

a broad category of distilled spirit produced from sugar cane or its byproducts. Many cultures around the world make some form of rum, as sugar cane can grow in tropical and subtropical climates. Arrack is the ancestor of rum. Rum production in the Americas was the direct result of colonization, especially by the British and French. Rums were until recently broken into groups by the colonizing European country—French, Spanish, English—but that practice has, thankfully, become passé. In a category this vast, it’s impossible to name all the styles. Below are a few that you might see called for in Al’s recipes. Many more types—dark, gold, overproof, demerara, Cuban, navy—exist in the great wide world of rum. Rum has a long history in punches, eighteenth-century tavern drinks, and traditional Caribbean drinks, as well as in cocktail culture.

White rum an essential spirit for classics like the Daiquiri, the best white rums on the market today are at least lightly aged.

Al recommends Denizen Aged White ($$), El Dorado 3 Year ($$), Plantation 3 Stars ($), and Real McCoy 3 Year ($).

Aged rum a catch-all for rums that have seen significant time in barrel, i.e. more than 5 years.

Al recommends Appleton Reserve or 12 Year ($$), English Harbour 5 Year ($$), Denizen Merchant’s Reserve ($$), and El Dorado 8 Year ($$), among many others.

Rhum Agricole a style of rum produced from fresh sugarcane juice. It is produced in the Caribbean, in Martinique and Guadeloupe, and well as the island of Reunion in the Indian Ocean. The typical flavor of this rum is fresh and grassy, with notes of tropical fruit. Aged and unaged styles exist and both are excellent.

Al recommends Rhum J.M. Blanc ($$), Neisson Blanc ($$), Barbancourt 8 Year ($$$), and Clément VSOP ($$$).

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Rye

an American whiskey that was historically produced in Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Maryland. Rye is known for its spicy, drier notes. It must have a mash bill (that's the mixture of grains used) of at least 51 percent rye, the rest being malted barley, and corn. Some ryes don’t use any corn and others use wheat as part of the mash bill. It must be aged in new charred-oak barrels. Straight rye has a minimum age of two years and must note the whiskey’s age on the bottle if aged less than four years. Rye was the cocktail whiskey well into the early twentieth century and was popular as early as the eighteenth century.

Al recommends Old Overholt ($$), Rittenhouse Bonded Rye ($$), and Wild Turkey Rye ($$), and Redemption Rye ($$).

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Scotch

a distilled grain spirit from Scotland. The Scots and the Irish were the first to produce whisk(e)y. All Scotch whisky must be made in Scotland, be produced from water and malted barley (other grains are permitted in addition, depending on type), and be aged for at least three years in oak barrels. There are five main whisky-producing regions within Scotland: Lowlands, Speyside, Campbeltown, Islay, and Highlands and the Islands. That last region is often considered two separate regions. Each region has its own style and flavor profile and so, of course, does each producer within those regions. Scotch has long had a place in mixed drinks. It shows up in nineteenth-century punches and, beginning after the Civil War, in cocktail culture.

Blended Scotch a mix of different whiskies; it must contain 60-70% grain spirit, produced from corn or wheat using a column still, and 30-40% single-malt whiskey (see below). This style of Scotch originated with Scottish grocers that started creating their own proprietary blends in the 19th century; among them were John Dewar, Johnnie Walker, and the Gloag family who founded Famous Grouse.

Al recommends The Famous Grouse ($$), Monkey Shoulder ($$), and Compass Box Artist Blend ($$$).

Single Malt a subcategory of Scotch that must be produced at a single distillery and may not employ any grain other than malted barley. The use of a pot still and two rounds of distillation are also required. The choice of producers to use peat or not during the malting process is a major factor in the profile of the finished Scotch. Peat is a layer of earth comprised of decomposing vegetation that is a traditional heat source and is sometimes used to malt barley.

Al recommends Laphroaig ($$$$) and Ardbeg Ten ($$$) for peaty expressions, and Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie ($$$) and Balvenie Double Wood 12 ($$$) as less peaty options.

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Tequila

a distilled spirit from Mexico produced from the maguey plant, a member of the amaryllis family that’s best known by its Latin name, agave. The process involves the harvesting of the plants and removal of the spiky leaves, which reveals the heart of the plant called piñas. These are then cooked, either in ovens (a process most closely associated with tequila’s “cleaner” taste) or in pits dug into the earth and fueled by hard wood (associated with what we commonly call mezcal). Mezcal is actually the overarching category under which tequila falls; tequila can only be made from blue agave and in a small group of regions. The three main categories of tequila are blanco or silver (unaged), reposado (“rested” in oak barrels), and añejo (aged in oak for at least 1 year). Tequila begins showing up in cocktail culture in the 1930s and ‘40s and, through the Margarita and its offshoots, has been exceedingly popular for decades.

Al recommends Pueblo Viejo ($$) and Siete Leguas ($$), Fortaleza ($$$), and Herradura ($$), but there are so many great brands out there!

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Tennessee Whiskey

a corn-based whiskey produced with similar regulations to bourbon. It is traditionally filtered through sugar maple charcoal after distillation and before aging; this is called the Lincoln County Process. Many describe it as a lighter-bodied bourbon. Jack Daniel’s is one of the oldest and most well-known producers.

Al recommends Uncle Nearest 1856 or 1884 ($$$), George Dickel No. 12 ($$), or Nelson’s Green Brier Tennessee Whiskey ($$).

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Vodka

a distilled spirit traditionally produced from grain or potatoes, though it can be produced from almost anything. Strongly associated with Russia and eastern Europe. Vodka or wodka means “little water” in Russian and in Polish. This spirit does not show up in pre-Prohibition era cocktails, but became a popular ingredient in mixed drinks beginning after World War II and continuing through the present day. Vodka is the best selling spirit in the U.S.

Al recommends Russian Standard ($$), Barr Hill ($$$), and Hangar 1 ($$).

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Americano wines

Americanos are apéritif/aperitivo wines that feature gentian as their primary bittering agent; other botanicals used vary by producer. Like their close cousin, the quinquina/chinato family, americanos fall under the larger umbrella or aromatized, fortified wines.

Al recommends the Cocchi products, like the classic Cocchi Americano ($$) and its sibling is a favorite and Cocchi Americano Rosa ($$), which are the best products from this category available widely in the U.S.

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Madeira

a fortified wine from the island of the same name. The island sits in the Atlantic Ocean off the northwest coast of Africa, southeast of the Iberian Peninsula. It was colonized in 1420 by the Portuguese and remains under that country’s rule. Madeira is a wine that’s been heated, oxidized and fortified. The four main types are Sercial, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey, aka Malvasia; they range from dry to sweet in the order listed here. Madeira was the most popular fortified wine in the eighteenth-century period, but it became less popular than its cousins, port and sherry, by the Civil War era.

Al recommends Henriques & Henriques ($$) is a favorite and Rare Wine Co. Historic Series ($$$) is excellent, while Broadbent’s ($$) and Blandy’s ($$) are good options and generally easy to find.

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Mistelles

a category of products wherein fresh, unfermented—or partially fermented—juice of grapes or other fruit is mixed with the spirit distilled from that fruit. The ratio of juice to spirit is usually 2:1 or 3:1. Once the two elements have been mixed, the resulting mixture is usually barrel aged. For grape-based mistelles, most products fall into the white or red categories. The most famous example of a mistelle is Pineau des Charentes, which is produced in Cognac. Floc de Gascogne is the Armagnac version. Pommeau de Normandie is made with apple juice and Calvados, while the lesser known Poireau or Poirineau is made with pear juice and its brandy, also from Normandy. (Though not technically a fortified wine, it fits in here better than with spirits or liqueurs.)

Al recommends Pierre Ferrand Pineau des Charentes ($$), Beaulon Pineau des Charentes ($$), Père Jules Pommeau ($$), and Christian Drouin Pommeau ($$).

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Port

a fortified wine from Portugal. Grape spirit is added before the end of the wine’s fermentation, which causes it to keep some of its residual sugar. It can be made from either red grapes (Ruby and Tawny styles) or white grapes (White port). Ruby features bright red fruit and tannic notes. Tawny possesses more “leather-armchair” flavors⁠—tobacco, dried fruit and wood. These two styles have had significant roles in the history of drinking, from Sangarees to a long life as a favorite dessert wine or cheese accompaniment. White port is typically slightly sweet with low acidity and is a great option for hot weather, i.e. with tonic or in Cobblers.

Al recommends Quinta do Infantado Ruby, Tawny, and White ($$), Graham’s Tawny ($$), Six Grapes ($$) Sandeman ($$), and Fonseca Siroco White ($$).

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Quinquina

a fortified that has been aromatized with quinine and other botanicals, usually enjoyed as an apéritif. A natural anti-malarial, quinine was added to wine and given to French colonizer forces in North Africa in the 1840s, specifically during the Algerian War. Like many products that began as medicines, this category of apéritif wine became a recreational beverage in time. French styles are available in rouge (red-wine based) and blanc (white-wine based); rosé is a postwar addition to the category. In Italian, these wines are sometimes called chinato. In the old cocktail books, where these wines begin to pop up a lot in the early twentieth century, they are most frequently referred to as kina.

Al recommends Lillet rouge, blanc, or rosé ($) and Dubonnet for mixing, and Cap Corse rouge or blanc ($$) and Byrrh ($$) for sipping or enjoying with soda or tonic.

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Sherry

a fortified wine produced in a specific region of Andalusia, in southern Spain (known as the “sherry triangle”). Sherry is a protected appellation just like Cognac or Champagne. Traditionally, the production of sherry revolves around the solera system, wherein barrels are stacked on top of each other and the top barrel is filled with the newest wine; the wine cycles through until it reaches the lowest barrel, the only one from which finished wine is taken. It's a living system, not wholly dissimilar to a sourdough starter. When we talk about sherries for drinking before a meal or using in cocktails, we are almost always talking about the following group of dry sherries. On the dry, lighter end are fino and manzanilla, both are aged under the protective flor and are drier on the palate, with briny notes. Moving in a more oxidized direction, we have amontillado, palo cortado and oloroso. In each case the flor is either removed or dissipates—depending on the style—exposing the wine to air and giving it its darker color and nutty flavor profile. Dry sherries have a long history in cocktails stretching from the nineteenth century through Prohibition and again in the past twenty years. Pedro Ximénez, or PX, sherry is made with a grape of that name, but it’s not used in cocktails very often; it’s very sweet and therefore more suited to playing the role of a dessert wine.

Al recommends any of the sherries from Lustau ($$) or Bodegas Hidalgo ($$).

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Vermouth

a fortified wine that has been aromatized with botanicals—wormwood leaves and other roots, herbs, flowers, and spices, depending on the producer. The sweet version we use today originated in the alpine city of Torino in the eighteenth century; it is referred to as Italian vermouth. The dry style comes from Lyon, France, in the 1840s and is referred to as French vermouth in the old cocktail books. Sweet vermouth became a force in cocktails in the 1870s and dry vermouth followed, becoming influential at the turn of the century. A third style called blanc vermouth is sweeter than dry vermouth and shows pleasant floral and vanilla flavors; bianco is the term for this style if produced in Italy. There are some instances of it being used in pre-Prohibition cocktails.

Al recommends Dolin ($) for dry and blanc, Noilly Prat Dry ($), Carpano Antica ($$) for an assertive sweet vermouth, and Cocchi di Torino ($) for a more herbaceous expression. Carpano’s Punt e Mes is technically an aperitivo-vermouth hybrid, but is excellent when subbed into the vermouth spot in cocktails.

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Amaro

a diverse category of bitter digestivi, mostly produced in Italy. The range of bitterness within this disparate group can range from mild to aggressive; ABV also ranges from low (~15%) to the proof of a standard distilled spirit (40-45%). Amari are produced through the process of maceration and/or distillation of botanicals in wine or a grain spirit, followed often by blending and resting to synthesize the elements. Like many herbal liqueurs, these products originated as medicines produced in medieval monasteries. The flavors can range from citrus to kola nut to spice to mint, eucalyptus, and beyond. There are several subcategories including fernet, alpine, rabarbaro, carciofo, and more.

Al recommends Braulio ($$$) for alpine, Sfumato ($$$) or Zucca ($$$) for rabarabaro, Averna ($$) and Meletti ($$) for middle-of-the-road bitterness, Cynar ($$) for carciofo, Varnelli Sibilla ($$$) and Dell’erborista ($$$) for pronounced bitternes, St. Agrestis Amaro ($$$) and Marseille ($$$), which are both made in Brooklyn, and so many more.

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Aperitivo Liqueurs

a category of bitter liqueurs from Italy, often bright red in color, that are meant to be consumed before dinner, typically in the early evening ritual called aperitivo. These products emerged in the nineteenth century as patent medicines and quickly came to be used for recreation. Typically flavored with gentian root, citrus peel, and other botanicals depending on the producer, these products have been a mainstay in Italian drinking for over 150 years. The Milano-Torino, Americano (the highball, not the espresso drink), and the Negroni and its many offshoots count Campari as a central ingredient.

Al recommends Campari ($$) for the original, Select Bitter ($$) for a tart, juniper-tinged expression, Luxardo Bitter Bianco ($$) for a clear option, and St. Agrestis Paradiso ($$) for a newer style made in Brooklyn.

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Crème Liqueurs

a subcategory of liqueurs that feature a high sugar content and medium alcohol level (around 25%). The sugar content makes them incredibly syrupy in texture; this is supposedly the reason for the use of the French word crème. These products began flooding into the U.S. from France in the later nineteenth century. Some of the best known products in the category are crème de cacao, crème de menthe, and crème de violette, though there are many more, like crème de banane and crème de noyaux. Many of these pop up in old cocktail recipes. Crème de cassis is also a popular product and remains a traditional ingredient in Kirs in France.

Al recommends Tempus Fugit ($$$) for cacao, banane, noyaux and menthe; Marie Brizard ($$) and Giffard ($$$) are also good producers. Massenez ($$) is a good cassis option.

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Floral Liqueurs

a category of liqueurs that are flavored with flowers. Originating during the Renaissance period, these liqueurs were flavored with different types of flowers as well as complimentary botanicals, like spices, and sometimes fruits as well. Some such products are Parfait Amour (roses, violettes, vanilla), Crème Yvette (violettes, blackberries, raspberries), and crème de violette (primarily violets). These liqueurs show up in cocktail recipes beginning in the decades following the Civil War. Elderflower, which was long used in homemade cordials, also became the base flavor for commercially produced liqueurs.

Al recommends St. Germain ($$) and Rothman & Winter Crème de Violette ($$).

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Fruit Liqueurs

a broad category of liqueurs based in orchard fruits, berries, and the like. For citrus liqueurs see Orange & Citrus Liqueurs. Alcohol and sugar have long been methods for preserving summer fruits and these liqueurs are an outgrowth of those traditions. Fruits that have been used as the base for liqueurs include stone fruits (apricots, peaches), orchard fruit (pears, cherries), tropical fruit (pineapple, banana), berries (strawberries, raspberries), and more. Of all of these, maraschino, made from marasca cherries and originating in Croatia when it was under Venetian rule, has the most significant place in cocktail history, having been used since the Civil War period.

Al recommends Maraska Maraschino ($$), Luxardo Maraschino ($$$), Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot ($$), Mathilde Pêche ($$), Tempus Fugit Crème de Banane ($$), and Bellet de Brillet ($$$).

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Gentian Liqueurs

a category of liqueurs, as well as apéritif wines, originating in alpine France and adjacent regions. Known as gentianes in France. The primary flavor of these products comes from gentian root, which is plentiful in the Alps and Pyrenees and imparts intense bitterness. It has long been used for the same purpose in bitters, aperitivo liqueurs, and amaro.

Al recommends intense Suze ($$) and milder Salers ($$) for liqueurs; Bonal ($$) is a great example of a wine-based gentiane.

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Gin-based Liqueurs

a category of liqueurs that use gin as their base instead of neutral grain or grape-based spirits. Gin-based liqueurs called “cordials” were popular in the Victorian era. Two traditional categories dominate this space in modern drinks: “summer cups” or “fruit cups,” like Pimm’s, and sloe gin. Pimm’s and the like originated in London in the early nineteenth century as house-made liqueurs or “tonics” wherein botanicals and sugar were used to further flavor gin. James Pimm was one of the first oyster tavern owners to serve such a product. Sloe gin is a traditional gin-based liqueur that is flavored with sloes, the fruit of the blackthorn shrub, and sweetened. Both of these categories began as house-made (in taverns and eating houses) or homemade (by private citizens) and progressed to being manufactured and sold as commercial products.

Al recommends Pimm’s No. 1 ($$), Hayman’s Sloe Gin ($$), and Plymouth Sloe Gin ($$).

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Herbal Liqueurs

a broad category of liqueurs that are based in herbs, roots, and other botanicals and typically feature dozens of ingredients. Like so many liqueurs, these originated as medicines in European monasteries during the medieval period. Some hail from the Alps, others from the British Isles, Italy, Germany, and beyond. Chartreuse is one of the most enduring examples of the category, with Bénédictine and Drambuie also having a big presence into the twentieth century. They’ve had a long history in cocktails, like the Rusty Nail (Drambuie) and the Last Word (green Chartreuse).

Al recommends Chartreuse, green ($$$), Chartreuse, yellow ($$$), Drambuie ($$), Bénédictine ($$), and Galliano L’Autentico ($$$).

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Nut, Bean, & Seed Liqueurs*

a broad, loosely defined category of liqueurs centered on nuts, chocolate, coffee, and vanilla. Nuts have long been celebration foods associated with holidays. Chocolate, coffee, and vanilla are all tropical products that became accessible to Europeans through colonization and were considered precious. The process of creating liqueurs from these products was a way of capturing their flavor in a bottle to be enjoyed later.

* This excellent idea for a category heading is taken from Jim Meehan’s PDT Cocktail Book (2011).

Chocolate liqueurs flavored with chocolate begin to show up in American cocktails in the later nineteenth century.

Al recommends Tempus Fugit Crème de Cacao à la Vanille ($$$) and Giffard White Crème de Cacao ($$) for the higher-sugar, lower-ABV crème style, and Destillaré Intense Chocolate ($$) for a drier, stronger liqueur.

Coffee similarly to chocolate, liqueurs flavored with coffee, i.e. crème de mocca begin to show up in American bars in the later nineteenth century.

Al recommends Varnelli Caffè Moka ($$) and Forthave Brown ($$$).

Nut liqueurs flavored with nuts have been traditional in various parts of Europe for centuries, as in the case of nocino, made from black walnuts (when they’re still green) gathered on the Feast of St. John in late June. Nut liqueurs like amaretto (almond flavor actually imparted by apricot kernels) and Frangelico (hazelnuts) have been popular commercial products for years and amaretto in particular has been an ingredient in many popular cocktails.

Al recommends Nux Alpina Walnut Liqueur ($$$), Forthave “Black” Nocino ($$$), and Don Ciccio & Figli Nocino ($$).

Vanilla mostly used as an ingredient in liqueurs with other dominant flavors, vanilla liqueurs do and have existed in cocktail history. The Hoffman House Bartender’s Guide (1912 edition) lists vanille in its list of liquors and cordials.

Al recommends Giffard Vanille de Madagascar ($$) and Drillaud Vanilla ($$).

Anise seed Many cultures around the world make anise-flavored liqueurs and spirits, from anisette to arak, ouzo, sambuca, and more. See also Pastis.

Al recommends Varnelli Anice Secco Speciale ($$) and Herbsaint ($$).

Noyaux Crème de Noyaux can be made from the pits of stone fruit and/or cherries. It shows up in some pre-Prohibition cocktail recipes.

Al recommends Tempus Fugit Crème de Noyaux ($$$).

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Orange & Citrus Liqueurs

an important category of liqueurs that has had a significant role in cocktails since before the Civil War. Citrus peel, especially from bitter orange varietals, has been used to make liqueurs for many centuries. Curaçao, from the Caribbean island of the same name, is one such product; it is often made using a Cognac base. Triple sec is a term used for many other orange liqueurs. Other citrus fruits, such as lemons, citrons, and grapefruits are also used to flavor liqueurs.

Al recommends Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao ($$), Grand Marnier ($$$), Combier ($$), and Cointreau ($$) for orange liqueurs. Nardini Acqua di Cedro ($$$) and Giffard Crème de Pamplemousse ($$) are also good products.

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Pastis

a liqueur that was introduced in early twentieth century France as a substitute for absinthe, which had been outlawed. It is flavored with anise, fennel, and licorice as well as other botanicals, depending on the producer. This product is heavily associated with Marseille and the south of France more broadly. It is typically enjoyed with chilled water, especially in summer. It is sometimes used in cocktails in place of absinthe.

Al recommends Pernod Pastis ($$) and Ricard ($$).

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Spice Liqueurs

a loosely defined category of liqueurs featuring spices and tea as dominant flavors. Traditional products like the Caribbean liqueurs allspice dram and falernum, fall into this category. So, too, does Swedish punsch, a liqueur that originated in Sweden as a commercially produced version of homemade punches; it features slightly smoky flavors with tea, spices, and citrus peel.

Al recommends St. Elizabeth Allspice Dram ($$), John D. Taylor Velvet Falernum ($$), and Kronan Swedish Punsch ($$).

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