Super-bitter amari
There’s such a vast range of bitterness within the broader category of amaro and the bottles in this chapter feature a mini range on the bitter end of the spectrum. Most amari get their bitterness from gentian, cinchona bark, wormwood, and quassia, though there are other outliers that are less commonly used (like the tree sap in the Elisir Novasalus, below). Super-bitter amari have more potent digestive properties, making them even better suited than their milder cousins for making one feel better after a big meal.
Amaro Dell’erborista: the Varnelli family in Marche produces a range of liqueurs and amari (since 1868), including this excellent amaro (lightly) sweetened with honey from the foothills of Mount Sibillini. The botanicals–including rhubarb root, cinnamon, cinchona bark, and clove–are fire-roasted before being macerated in spirit. It is unfiltered and has a dry, bitter, and smoky profile with notes of sandalwood and spice. It’s a favorite of mine!
Amaro Alta Verde: from Cappelletti, this amaro features the primary botanical of assenzio, a member of the wormwood family. It tastes of Alpine herbs and features a persistent, piney bitterness. Unlike most amari, it is nearly colorless. It can be used to great effect in cocktails, like a barspoon in an Alpine martini or bolstering Suze or Salers in a White Negroni.
Elisir Novasalus Vino Amaro: The recipe for this Cappelletti product originated during the WWI period. This is one of the most bitter amari out there. It is a vino amaro that uses a base of dry Marsala wine. It employs a six-month process of macerating thirty botanicals, including high Alpine herbs and roots, as well as ingredients from further afield, like Sicilian tree sap. I repeat, this one is exceedingly bitter! But it’s also beautiful in its own way.
Pairing suggestion: confections like sea salt caramels and candied citrus peel; Italian pastry-shop classics like cannoli, amaretti, or assorted Italian cookies.