Candied Citrus Peel, Riesling-Citrus Syrup, and Granita Molds
This 3-for-1 prep task creates a garnish, a syrup, and the granita that forms the stunning base of the Skiing Waiter, a Club favorite from January 2021.
INGREDIENTS
2-2.5 lbs. mixed oranges and grapefruits ― we’ll be using the peel and the juice, so follow the steps in order
2 cups sugar, divided
2 cups Riesling
1½ oz. Campari
Kosher salt
Citric acid (optional)
A few notes before we get started:
The candied peel is to be served alongside the Café Mont Blanc. It’s not absolutely necessary, but I do think it’s fun and a great cooking adventure if you haven’t done it before.
The candying process also flavors a Riesling-based simple syrup that's needed for the granita project and the Café Mont Blanc; if not candying the peel, make a 1:1 syrup using Riesling in place of water. Be sure to use low heat to dissolve the sugar, which preserves the wine flavor in the final product.
Finally, the granita! Another new skill I picked up developing this month's cocktails. You can choose to put only some of the granita base into molds, and scrape the rest into crystals (like a traditional granita) for a dessert, but I also think these would be cool cubes for a variety of drinks! Or you can just make 8-10 Skiing Waiters and call it a week.
My pal Natasha Pickowicz was kind enough to advise me on these recipes! They’re based on her own methods for candying and granita, respectively. Thanks, Natasha!
You'll need a chunk of time to do all of this, so plan accordingly!
Prepare your citrus: Cut the tops and bottoms off fruits. Take the peels off by cutting them off with a knife, following the curve of the fruit. If you have any of the flesh stuck to the pith on your peels, remove that by scraping with a spoon. Cut into skinny strips, somewhere between ¼”- and ½" wide (or whatever size you want!). You’ll have approximately 1 heaping cup of peel (not very tightly packed). Put a medium pot full of water on to boil. Juice the citrus and set juice aside. You should have about 1½ cups juice.
This step is for removing some of the natural bitterness of the peel: Bring boiling water down to a simmer and add peels. Blanch in first batch of water for 7-8 minutes. To save time for blanching round 2, boil a pot or kettle of water separately. Remove peel (using a spider or slotted spoon) or drain them through a strainer. Either way, ditch first round of blanching water (which will be very bitter!) and rinse out pot. Add fresh hot water from kettle / pot and add peels. Bring to simmer again. Blanch for another 5 minutes. Drain / remove peel and set aside until the next step.
Now for the candying part: In a small saucepan, combine 2 cups Riesling with 1½ cups sugar. Heat over medium heat, stirring every so often, until sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a simmer and add peel in. Simmer on low heat for about one hour; the peel should become translucent and easy to bite through. If using a spider or slotted spoon, remove the peel and set aside; if using a large strainer, make sure you do so over a bowl to catch the candying syrup, as we’ll need it for other things. You should end up with about 1½ cups syrup. Allow syrup to cool.
Now to roll your peels in the sugar mixture: In a bowl, mix ½ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. (Natasha says a spoonful of citric acid is a great idea, too, with a sour twist!) Toss the peels in it and lay them out on the drying rack. After 10-12 hours, flip the peels and let them dry further; they’ll firm up.
Time to make the granita molds: Combine 1½ cup citrus juice, 3 oz. citrus-candying syrup (or 1:1 Riesling syrup, see above), and 1½ oz. Campari. Pour into small molds or an ice cube tray. Ideally each will be about ¼ cup (2 oz.); you’ll end up with about eight granita “domes” or cubes, if you make them 2 oz. each, or you’ll have more if you make them smaller (most ice cube trays fit about 1¼ oz. liquid in each section). Freeze until ready to use!