Candied Citrus Peel, Riesling-Citrus Syrup, and Granita Molds

This 3-for-1 prep task creates a garnish, a syrup, and the granita that forms the stunning base of the Skiing Waiter, a Club favorite from January 2021.

INGREDIENTS

2-2.5 lbs. mixed oranges and grapefruits ― we’ll be using the peel and the juice, so follow the steps in order
2 cups sugar, divided
2 cups Riesling
1½ oz. Campari
Kosher salt
Citric acid (optional)


A few notes before we get started:

  • The candied peel is to be served alongside the Café Mont Blanc. It’s not absolutely necessary, but I do think it’s fun and a great cooking adventure if you haven’t done it before.

  • The candying process also flavors a Riesling-based simple syrup that's needed for the granita project and the Café Mont Blanc; if not candying the peel, make a 1:1 syrup using Riesling in place of water. Be sure to use low heat to dissolve the sugar, which preserves the wine flavor in the final product.

  • Finally, the granita! Another new skill I picked up developing this month's cocktails. You can choose to put only some of the granita base into molds, and scrape the rest into crystals (like a traditional granita) for a dessert, but I also think these would be cool cubes for a variety of drinks! Or you can just make 8-10 Skiing Waiters and call it a week.

  • My pal Natasha Pickowicz was kind enough to advise me on these recipes! They’re based on her own methods for candying and granita, respectively. Thanks, Natasha!

  • You'll need a chunk of time to do all of this, so plan accordingly!

Prepare your citrus: Cut the tops and bottoms off fruits. Take the peels off by cutting them off with a knife, following the curve of the fruit. If you have any of the flesh stuck to the pith on your peels, remove that by scraping with a spoon. Cut into skinny strips, somewhere between ¼”- and ½" wide (or whatever size you want!). You’ll have approximately 1 heaping cup of peel (not very tightly packed). Put a medium pot full of water on to boil. Juice the citrus and set juice aside. You should have about 1½ cups juice.

This step is for removing some of the natural bitterness of the peel: Bring boiling water down to a simmer and add peels. Blanch in first batch of water for 7-8 minutes. To save time for blanching round 2, boil a pot or kettle of water separately. Remove peel (using a spider or slotted spoon) or drain them through a strainer. Either way, ditch first round of blanching water (which will be very bitter!) and rinse out pot. Add fresh hot water from kettle / pot and add peels. Bring to simmer again. Blanch for another 5 minutes. Drain / remove peel and set aside until the next step.

Now for the candying part: In a small saucepan, combine 2 cups Riesling with 1½ cups sugar. Heat over medium heat, stirring every so often, until sugar is completely dissolved. Bring to a simmer and add peel in. Simmer on low heat for about one hour; the peel should become translucent and easy to bite through. If using a spider or slotted spoon, remove the peel and set aside; if using a large strainer, make sure you do so over a bowl to catch the candying syrup, as we’ll need it for other things. You should end up with about 1½ cups syrup. Allow syrup to cool.

Now to roll your peels in the sugar mixture: In a bowl, mix ½ cup sugar and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. (Natasha says a spoonful of citric acid is a great idea, too, with a sour twist!) Toss the peels in it and lay them out on the drying rack. After 10-12 hours, flip the peels and let them dry further; they’ll firm up.

Time to make the granita molds: Combine 1½ cup citrus juice, 3 oz. citrus-candying syrup (or 1:1 Riesling syrup, see above), and 1½ oz. Campari. Pour into small molds or an ice cube tray. Ideally each will be about ¼ cup (2 oz.); you’ll end up with about eight granita “domes” or cubes, if you make them 2 oz. each, or you’ll have more if you make them smaller (most ice cube trays fit about 1¼ oz. liquid in each section). Freeze until ready to use!

 
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Cucumber-lemon shrub

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Rosemary-infused Campari