Hotel Nacional Special
Originally published in 1939 in Charles H. Baker, Jr.’s Gentleman’s Companion, this drink was invented in Havana–either by Wil P. Taylor or Eddie Woelke, who worked for the Hotel Nacional and Casino Nacional respectively. I was inspired by Juyoung Kang’s spec (which I learned about through doing a story on it for Punch), but I put my own spin on it by choosing to use lemon instead of lime.
Golden Corral
This is a bonus recipe this month, as it doesn’t fit neatly into any of our prescribed categories. I took inspiration from two drinks: the Golden Glove, a blended orange-inflected Daiquiri from El Floridita in the 1930s, and the Derby Daiquiri, also orangey and dating from the late 1950s, it was an entry into the Rums of Puerto Rico competition. From these, I created a creamsicle-esque rum sour that’s a great addition to our recipe collection this month.
Royal Bermuda Yacht Club
This is the drink that represents the properly-tiki contingent within this month’s recipe collection. Dating to the late 1940s, this rum sour features tiki favorite falernum, as well as orange liqueur; Trader Vic’s book actually calls for Cointreau, but many modern bartenders use Curaçao. I added a touch of simple syrup as well as Angostura, which has a great conversation with the spices in the falernum.
Pago Pago
By all accounts, this drink was first published in a RonRico rum recipe pamphlet. Presaging the Swampwater’s combination of green Chartreuse, pineapple, and lime, this complex rum sour also features crème de cacao. I added vanilla syrup and fresh mint for our Club version, and I also have a tequila-based version on Gigantic’s spring menu with yellow Chartreuse called Fun in Acapulco!
Rangoon Gimlet
Here’s a delicious blended Gimlet that’s got a great texture to it. Done in the style of blended Cuban Daiquiris like the Golden Glove, this ice-cold drink combines juniper with spices and tart lime for a refreshing, time-travelin’ good time. This drink was popular at both the China Trader in Burbank and Tiki-Ti on Sunset Boulevard during the 1960s.
Mrs. Shellhammer’s Martini
Inspired by Miracle on 34th Street (1947) and the “double-strength” Martinis prepared so Mrs. Shellhammer will agree to letting Kris Kringle live with her and her husband, who is the toy department chief. I decided to make them “double-pine” with extra juniper-y gin, rosemary-infused vermouth, pine liqueur, and a touch of Chartreuse Élixir Végétal. It tastes like a Christmas tree. Garnished with a quick-pickled cranberry on a pick, which looks stunning in a coupe or Martini glass.
Old Etonian & Fairbank Cocktails
There are two very similar crème de noyaux-laced recipes for Martini-like drinks that emerged in London and Paris during the 1920s: the Old Etonian and the Fairbank Cocktail. The former features a 1:1 ratio of dry gin to blanc quinquina, while the latter tips the scale in the gin direction and calls for dry vermouth instead of quinquina. Both have a slight almondy flavor and reflect the “wetter” Martini style of the period.
Jockey Club Cocktail
Dating to 1922 and Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, the original recipe for the Jockey Club is basically like a Brandy Crusta with London dry gin in place of the brandy and crème de noyaux in place of maraschino. I decided to take these ingredients and structure it more like a Sidecar, upping the liqueur and citrus components while still retaining the bitters, which I quite like.
Pink Squirrel
This Alexander cousin is, by all accounts, original to Bryant’s Cocktail Lounge in Milwaukie, circa the early 1940s. Like the Grasshopper, the Pink Squirrel is traditionally made with two flavorful liqueurs and either cream or ice cream, but our version dries things out and adds a touch of bitterness with brandy, blanc quinquina, and a barspoon of Peychaud’s. I like the dusting of cocoa powder, both aesthetically and for the way it bolsters the crème de cacao.
Jack Rose & the Pan American Clipper
The Jack Rose is a turn-of-the-century cocktail that has that golden age vibe–cool name, cool vibe. And the Pan Am Clipper (basically a Jack Rose with absinthe), a Charles H. Baker, Jr. drink, has the same caché, just a few decades later. There’s a lot of ways to make these cocktails well, but for this version, I cut back the grenadine and added rich simple for improved texture, plus a sneaky small measure of Jamaican rum to add dimension.
Pink Lady
The Pink Lady is a drink originating in the 1910s that features a split base of dry gin and apple brandy. Most specs include egg white and some include cream. I based our version on Harry McElhone’s recipe from his ABC of Mixing Cocktails, published in London in 1922, which does include both egg white and cream. Gorgeous color, delicious, and looks so good with a bitters design on top.
Metexa
I first encountered this cocktail when I was assigned a story about the Metexa for Punch. Originally, it called for blanc quinquina, blanco tequila, and Swedish punsch, a liqueur with notes of spice, citrus and tea. I was fascinated by the structure of the drink, which leaned heavily on the fortified wine. For this version, the wine stays in the starring role, but I swapped out the moody, broody Swedish punsch in favor of summery apricot liqueur and added a little spicy habanero shrub and saline for dimension.
Toreador
The Toreador in the Café Royal book is basically a tequila sour with apricot liqueur, but because we had blanc quinquina on our supply list, I added used it as a lengthener that also adds very subtle bitterness and acidity. I put in a little rich simple syrup for texture and balance, plus a really cool salted “sour patch” sugar rim for fun!
Jalisco
This tequila sour with orange juice and grenadine sounds a lot like a precursor to the Tequila Sunrise, so I created a Jalisco that is a lime-and-orange tequila sour balanced with rich simple and flavored with a touch of habanero shrub. In place of grenadine, I reached for the Campari that was already on our supply list. It makes for a far more balanced “sink” than grenadine and the visual is stunning!
Chocolate Martini
The Chocolate Martini is an interesting member of our motley ‘tini crew this month, as it claims roots in the postwar era. The possibly apocryphal story is that Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor invented it on the set of Giant (1956), which is a stunning movie that was filmed mostly in Marfa, Texas. The sweet vodka-based concoction was adopted by the ‘tini craze in the ‘80s and ‘90s and it’s still ordered in bars today by lovers of dessert drinks.
French Martini
The only thing that’s French about a French Martini is Chambord. The black raspberry liqueur produced in the Loire Valley for centuries. The French Martini combines it with a vodka base and pineapple juice and it originated at Pravda in the mid-nineties, introduced to the world by famous bartender Dale DeGroff. It tastes like grandma candy that features unidentifiable flavors but is actually really delicious.
Espresso Martini
What can one say about this absolute juggernaut of a drink? Though it was invented by Dick Bradsell in 1990s London, it has had a second life in recent years. There are a great many ways to make one, and countless variations proffered by today’s bartenders, but I designed this one to be almost identical to Bradsell’s original spec, with a couple slight changes. I increased the syrup and opted to use vanilla syrup and I added just a touch of saline to enhance the drink’s flavors.
Pornstar Martini
This drink is the only one of this month’s recipes that was invented after the turn of the twenty-first century. It was invented in 2002 by bartender Douglas Ankrah. Originally called the Maverick Martini after a gentleman’s club Ankrah frequented in Cape Town, the drink combined vanilla vodka, passion fruit liqueur and passionfruit purée, and vanilla syrup, with a little glass of prosecco on the side. Since its inception, it has remained very popular in the U.K. and beyond.
Deauville & Casino Cocktails
It's no surprise that brandies have often been used in cocktails royale and these two drinks are excellent examples of the form. They have the same basic underlying concept: a champagne cocktail with absinthe and bitters and a bit of brandy (apple for the Deauville, grape for the Casino). I also give the option here of using pineapple syrup, which is a nod to the 1925 drink, Train Bleu, as well as Harry Johnson's Gilded-Age Saratoga spec.
Bonsoir Paris
I knew I really wanted to have a gin drink in the mix for our Parisian Cocktails Royale theme, and I found this one in a lesser known book called Recette des Cocktails pour 1929 by E. Milhorat and J. Alimbau. Its combination of London dry gin and cherry liqueur, plus Angostura bitters, makes for a spiced fruit-and-pine base upon which to layer dry, bubbly wine. It’s my favorite this month!